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Windshield

So I called FF to see if i could get a new windshield to replace the one that broke when a gust of wind separated it from the body and blew it across my yard....

Each windshield costs $250 USD... Reasonable enough. I asked FF to quote me the price for 2 shipped to my house (in Canada)

2 windshields international Priority shipped to my door: $4,975.36 CAD
2 windshields international Economy shipped to my door: $4,097.78 CAD
2 windshields shipped to Montana (so i would have to drive for 6 hours to go get them) $1,601.87 CAD, + storage fee at a border crossing receiver + duty at the border ($34 or so)

so about $800 + duty a windshield if I order 2. (still the most expensive piece of glass i will have ever bought in my life.)

So... anyone in Alberta want an extra windshield, this gets cheaper if i go and pick up a few, then we can split the shipping costs. The 6 hour drive will be on me.

More GTM Wiring

i used the painless harness, it outputs +12. So to prevent too much surgery i stuck with it. 

Family and i went camping this weekend, came home because it was raining and snowing the whole time. So figured i would spend an hour out in the garage and a few hours running around town shopping.

I bought more wire to complete the power mirror wiring and power window wiring. This wire will also be used for door locks and door poppers.

I went to the junk yard and picked up for wiring harness for the power mirrors. Total cost was $8 with a switch. The switch i bought new has power fold (so it has a silk screen that says power fold)

I bought a small amp wiring kit. I plan to put a small amp behind the passenger seat.

Amp kit came with RCA cables that were way to long, so i bought shorter cables. I also received the new relay box (also in the photo)

These are the two different switches

Wired up to the mirrors on the bench, turns out they are wired differently. The unit with power fold has the motor polarity opposite to the one without power fold. It also turns out that my old diagram had the left and right mirrors backwards.

Here are the new wiring diagrams with the correct right/left mirror and positive to the right side of the motor (so left is left, right is right, etc.)

The silk screen at the bottom of the mirror switch would bug me so i sanded it off with a sugar cube. Sugar cubes work great for removing silk screen from plastic. Now i wont have to use the junk yard unit, I will use the new unit instead.

More GTM Wiring

I finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

1. The reverse relay now triggers with a ground (this uses less wire from the front to the back)
2. I changed the parking light wiring. The old wiring would only light up the low beams on the front signal lights. There was nothing illuminated on the rear of the vehicle. I'm pretty sure that the law here is that the tail lights need to also light up. I checked all of my factory vehicles, they all light the brakes and the front signals. This needs one more diode, it will also light the side marker lights and the license plate.

Horn is now complete
Wiper fluid motor is now wired.
all front lights and back lights are wired up to the front and rear of the vehicle. I will do the rest once the body is on and i know where the lights end up
I removed all of the unneeded pins from the column harness 

I made a new todo list before mounting the body.... somehow the list got longer, but it is more specific. Here is what i have now.

1. Wrap Headers
2. Truck Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
3. Hood Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
4. AC illumination wire needs to run to cluster (then i need to find a way to wire it into the dimmer for the existing gauges)
5. Door Switches (for alarm/foot well lights) I think i will need yet another 5 pole relay for this. (Put the old licence plate lights into each foot well)
6. Side Marker lights (I have the relays all working, just need wires that go to all 4 corners)
7. Run reverse light wire to stereo (i have the wires hanging, need loom and to feed it through the grommets)
8. Assemble and mount cold air intake (ff unit)
9. Cut floor vent holes in aluminium and rivet the vents on
10. install the orifice tube in the AC line.... I thought i did this but i found the tube in a box
11. Extend all the gauge sensor wires so they follow the rest of the loom under the dash.
12. Extend the wiper motor wires over to the motor.
13. Finish column wires
14. Put welding blanket into the tunnel
15. Get 3M double stick tape to attach the alarm vibration module.
16. Create wire loom to go into each door (locks/mirrors/windows/speakers/poppers)
17. Make a bracket to mount the kooks exhaust to the G96 trans
18. Fix coolant leak (this just started, coming from where the tube connects to the flex line)
19. Drill the top aluminum sheet (on the dash). cleco it in place for now.
20. Safety wire the rear axle bolts again.
21. Rivet on the driver side tunnel aluminum
22. Install the drivers side gas tank
23. Install the fuel tank roll over valves
24. Install the Aeromotive fuel pump controller
25. Wire the electric column extend wires into the switch (needs a fuse)
26. Secure the heater bypass valve (need to make a bracket to hold it steady)
27. put some vacuum line to the heater bypass from the vacuum pump
28. I need a cigarette lighter power plug somewhere... maybe install the seats to see where there is room.
29. I bought an amp wiring kit to go behind the passenger seat, need to put in some grommets and get it run though the tunnel

Once thats done i might let some feature creep back in.

1. Door Poppers, there are lots of extra channels on the alarm, Seems i could use 2 to pop the driver/passenger doors
2. Rear camera (i ran the power wire already, but need some kind of signal wire, HDMI or RCA)
3. Line lock (not sure why i want this, spinning R888's would most likely kill the trans quickly)

Things finished today

1. Viper alarm with car starter is 100& wired in (No small Feet, this took most of the day). I also found a place to mount it.
2. AC Compressor wiring is 100% complete, wired into factory ECU.
3. AC Air unit is 100% complete
4. Heater Bypass is installed and wired in
5. Ign switch is 100% wired in.
6. All relays are 80% wired in. (Fuses are all installed, Diodes are installed,
7. Master fuse is installed and 30 amp self resetting fuses are installed for the Engine harness/Painless harness/AC unit/Fuel pump
8. Hazard lights wiring is complete (diodes installed)
9. Fog light wiring is complete.

if i can find time tomorrow i will

• Wire the rear lights
• Wire the Front lights
• Wire the horn
• Wire the wiper spray pump
• Wire the column switches
• Extend the wires for the gauges so they fit better.

More GTM Progress

I ended up taking a week off away from the car, stuff kept coming up, one night we had over a foot of snow fall over 2 hours and my family and i got stuck on a hill (on a highway) in the middle lane. There were 100+ other cars stuck along with us, even the snow plow that came to save us got stuck right beside us... fun night. My oldest son has been having some medical problems lately so we have had a variety of doctors appointments, Xrays, blood tests, etc. We have pretty good handle on everything now so life should be getting back to normal around here.

I didn't mention before but someone broke into my car the other day, took the garage door opener and used it to gain entry into my garage while my family and i were asleep. They stole all of my hunting gear and seemly random tools and parts from around the garage. The annoying part is not that they stole thousands of dollars worth of stuff but more that fact that ever time i go out there and try to find a part i get frustrated because i don't know if i misplaced it or if it was stolen. The latest one i noticed was a bucket i had filled with new AN fittings, it also had the little wire for calibrating the gauges in it along with the wires for controlling the gauge backlights..... Gone!. I ordered two new cables from SpeedHut, cost was about $26USD, but shipping was $44USD. So those two small cables just cost me $100 Cad... arg. So far i have counted up $4000 worth of missing tools and parts. 

KGTM was nice enough to send me his unused floor vents. 

I found this picture from an old post made by Shoeless, this is how he made a opening for those vents just under the AC unit. I plan to install them just like this. Should be fairly easy to drill holes on each side then make two straight cuts with the side grinder. I did think about making these openings above the AC unit but that wont be possible, space up there is at a premium.

here are the cancer causing grommets installed. I love these grommets, they will seal very well and can be sized by cutting away the back half of the grommet. After i ordered these i saw a post where someone just took a PVC pipe and put it straight over and sealed around the pipe. Thats a great idea, if i had do do this again i would do it that way as it would provide more space, and after the dash is closed up it would remain accessible.

I realized i have not had a picture of the whole car in a while, truthfully its less together now then it was a month ago... two steps forward, sometimes 5 steps back 🙂

My Alarm finally arrived, its a Viper 5706. It has remote start, alarm, vibration sensor, tilt sensor, window roll up module, 2 way remote, and it has a phone app with GPS tracking. I am installing this unit now because it has to wire into all of the core cars systems like ignition, door sensors, hood switches, windows, door locks. I have to find a home for this somewhere up under the dash, space under there is hard to find right now.

I complained before that FF didn't supply the fog light wiring. I was wrong, they did supply it, it was in the packaging for the fog lights themselves. They come with a switch, fuses and a relay holder. I think i will just use some of the raw wire around the car, I will cut out the fuses, relay and switch.

For the headlights/brights and daytime running lights i did something a little different. I wired the headlights to be always on (along with the tail lights). This fits my countries laws for day time running lights. The headlight switch on the stalk now controls the fog lights when headlights are selected. Switching on the brights will turn off the fog lights and switch the headlights to brights. This also helps me remove one more switch from the dash.

GTM Progress

The horn ground ring had to be modified to fit. This is what i had to do. After i cut off the majority of the collar i used a file to remove the sharp bits. 

These are the two relays for the VA unit. I had to remove these connectors to fit the wires though a grommet.

These are the new door switches i bought. Not to be installed soon, need the body on first. They just arrived in the mail.

This is the new electic mirror control switch, Also just arrived in the mail.

Door unlock solenoids arrived in the mail as well.

I hooked the mirrors up on the bench and verified that the motors work and the wires work the way i think they do. I still need the connector for the switch before i can test the system as a whole.

I adjusted the fuel pump filters to make room for the factory five cold air intake. I think this will leave just enough room. It will make it a little hard to read the fuel pressure gauge but i dont see that as a big deal.

Power Mirrors

I bought a mirror switch that i liked the look of for $26CAD on Amazon

Now that i have a switch i need the wiring pigtail for it. I have 2 options:

1. Get it from one of the vehicles on this site and cut it off. (junk yard run)
2. buy it new.

Here are the mouser part numbers and prices to but it new. (about $3.00)

Now we need to figure out the pinout. Lucky for me someone has already figured that out.

So onto how we will wire this up. I think 18 gauge wire should be sufficient for this task. Now i may have the polarity wrong on this diagram, so up may be down, down may be up.... i need to wire it all up on the bench first to see if this is right. If this all works out i only need 4 wires to travel from the drivers door to the passenger door

So far this is my wiring, i know some of these dont technically need relays but it makes me feel better having them. I couldnt find the maximum amp raitings of the column controls so this is the safest option and easy to diagnose.

• All painless wires are used as low current inputs (so i can downgrade the painless fuses to match).
• All painless + triggers are brought into relay terminal 86 so the integrated diodes can do their job.
• Fog lights and headlights will function properly and not operate at the same time (as per code here in Canada)
• license plate and marker lights will work (as per code here in Canada)
• All high current circuits get their own fuse (these are integrated into the relay block)
• hazard lights will work using 2 diodes
• Day time running lights (as per code here in Canada) will be accomplished by just wiring past the switch and leaving the lows on all the time (including tail lights)
• Turning the high beams on will turn off the low beams
• door locks will be compatible with the Viper alarm i am installing
• AC compressor uses the factory PCM, (so i can remove one relay from the Vintage Air harness)

GTM Wiring

OK, onto the body portion of the wiring. Some of this may be wrong, looking for feedback

5 pole relays
- #1 High beam relay (use the 5th pole to disable the fog lights when the high beams are on)
- #2 Door Locks (lock)
- #3 Door Locks (unlock)
- #4 Column In ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)
- #5 Column Out ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)

4 pole relays
- #6 Fog light relay (wired through High beam relays off pole)
- #7 Park light relay
- #8 Horn
- #9 Brake Lights

Engine Bay relays
- #1 AC Compressor Trigger
- #2 Fan 1
- #3 Fan 2

Diodes
- Hazard lights (left signal)
- Hazard lights (right signal)
- AC Compressor

Hazard lights.
I am going to wire them up like this photo
Attachment 106028

Brake lights
At the peddle the switch needs 2 wires, one to the PCM to cancel cruise and the other to a relay to run to a relay that operates the brake lights.

Fog lights.
The fog lights cannot function at the same time as the high beams in my province (this is in the government regulations document). I plan to use the 5th pin on the high beams relay to deliver power to the fog light relay. This will ensure that they cannot be used together. 

High Beams
Provincial rules again, i have to have a high beam indicator on the dash, a simple blue led drilled into the gauge cluster should take care of it.

low beams
Provincial rules , i need to have day time running lights in the front. I think i will run the low beam filament all the time, then use the high beam 5th relay pole to disable the low beam filament so i don't run both at the same time. The low beam switch on the column would just turn on the tail lights and the side marker lights (another provincial requirement)

Side Markers
By law where i live 4 side marker lights are required. two in the front (amber) and 2 in the back (red). These have to light up with the high beams and the low beams. This should also include the license plate light. I can use 2 diodes, one off the high beams and one off the low beams to run this circuit.

License plate light
Triggered along with the low beams or high beams, Just wire this into the same circuit as the Side Marker lights. (see above)

Door Locks
I need a lock and unlock wire to ground out for the alarm system, may as well use it for the center console as well.

Fans
these are wired in to the PCM using 1 relay for each fan. I have located these relays next to the PCM in the engine bay.

Cruise
This all goes directly back to the PCM, I need one additional wire for the brake signal to head back to the PCM to cancel cruise.

Reverse lights
Ign + run back to the switch on the trans, then to the reverse lights. I am also going to feed the switched signal back up to the dash. I can use this to flip on a rear view camera.

Radio
Acc +, 12v+, Speaker left door, Speaker right door, Amp wire to run behind passenger seat, RCA cables to run behind passenger seat, then one last set of speaker wire between the passenger and driver seats. The end result would be some kind of deck or computer in the dash, a small amp behind the passenger seat and a sub-woofer behind the driver seat.

Parking Lights
I still need to figure this out, are these separate filaments in the bulbs? Do Parking lights turn on the side markers as well?

Wiper Spray
No relay, straight from switch to the pump.

Wiper Speeds
factory harness straight from column to motor.

Power column
There are 2 wires that control the motor and another pair of wires that look like they go to a variable resistor. I was thinking about making a little box that takes Acc and 12v+, the resistor outputs, the switch inputs and the motor outputs. This would then make note of the columns distance when turning off the ignition and restore it when turning the ign back on. I could use a small Arduino that goes to sleep until it sees Acc come back on so it draws very little power. I think i will create the wiring harnesses now and leave them under the column and finish this project later.

Power Mirrors
I need a switch (i found some online but they are very expensive). I think a trip to the junkyard should turn up a small switch with a joystick and a switch that selects the left and right mirrors. For now i will extend all of the passenger side mirror wires over into the driver side door. All of the logic and control will end up in the driver side door.

Power Windows
The two wires on the window motor for the driver and passenger door will both run to the center console. These then wire into the FF window motor switches. I plan to add a window roll up module to the alarm at some point. This will roll the windows back up. The viper alarm system needs a wire for up and a wire for down, the module then wires in between the switch and the motor. I have to sit down and work this one out on paper.

Horn
The horn needs a relay according to what i have read. seems easy enough.

Heater
There is a wire on the vintage air unit to trigger the heater bypass to stop bypassing. This will feed to a small vacuum pump, that will trigger the unit i bought that will send hot coolant though the vintage air unit. I don't think i need a relay for this.

Alarm
I think the right unit for me is the Viper 5904 2 way with remote start. This will need to wire into the lock/unlock, ignition, window motors, siren, horn.

Things i may still add

• HDMI or other cable to run a camera mounted to the back. I would also need power for that camera and a trigger reverse wire to make the whole thing turn on.
• Door poppers, hooked to the alarm
• dome light switches on the doors + a dome light. I think the remote start needs this as well.
• 12v Acc (lighter plug)

Do i have anything wrong? or am i missing something?

Wiring Work

I performed a little wiring harness surgery yesterday. I didn't have the original AC pressure switch connector as it sits on the opposite side of the large round connector on the engine harness and I no longer have that part of the harness. But good news, there is an identical connector on the engine harness with slightly different wire colors, also as a bonus if you use it the wire lengths are a perfect length to get from the factory GTM PCM location to the factory GTM pressure sensor location. The connector has a grey, black and brown wire. Grey and black match the old connector, the brown wire can be treated as if its red.

Here is how I removed the old pins from the old harness and moved them to the new harness

Step 1 remove the plastic colored plug end by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the left and right side of each colored plastic cap. Pull up on the colored cap at the same time. it will pop off.

Now remove the plastic cap from the back with the same small flat blade screwdriver. There are 6 plastic clips that need to be pried off, i found it was easiest to work on them in pairs from left to right popping them out one by one being careful not to let them pop back into place.

Now you can remove the pin by applying a slight amount of pressure to the latch and pushing the pin back through the connector (toward the wire side)

Now strip back all the old wire loom and tape and you will have a stand-alone harness

Apply new wire loom and heat shrink tubing to make it look like new.

I then took apart my new engine harness and pushed each wire into the correct pin.

I did the same for the AC request wire and AC trigger wire. Those two cables go from the PCM to the round connector as well. I took those wires and fed them into a new female weatherpac connector with some new wire loom. I will plug that female connector into a new male connector that will go though the tunnel toward the vintage air unit. I will place the relay and diode in the tunnel under right near the front of the engine. I started working on the diode and relay portion of the AC harness. I finished it but figured it was best to leave it out and double check all the wiring tomorrow.