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27Sep/19

I now have a pair of San Francisco Rush cabinets.

There are a few items that I like to search for on Kiiji every day waiting for the right deal to come around. One of those is a linked set of arcade racing games. I wanted something with force feedback wheels and 3D graphics.

On a search last week I found a pair of units for $700 that needed a little TLC in Edmonton, one city away from me. I send the current owner an email letting him know that I would buy them sight unseen for $700 and sent him over a down payment of $200 to show him I was serious.

I took the next day off work and a friend and I drove down to Edmonton to pick them up.

The units were in fairly good shape but they have a few issues.

  1. The previous owner did not have the keys so I had to drill out all the locks
  2. One wheel has no force feedback and won't calibrate
  3. One wheel only has force feedback in one direction
  4. Both monitors are oversized horizontally and the monitor controls cannot resize the image
  5. One monitor is VERY dark
  6. One HDD works sometimes fails sometimes
  7. One topper has a light that doesn't work and crack in the marquee
  8. The seat units are not removable (needs modification to fit into my basement)
  9. The lights on many of the buttons do not work, the wires have been ripped off.
  10. The view 2 button on one unit does not work
  11. The batteries that save high scores are both dead.
  12. The wood around the seats is damaged on both units.
  13. The wood that covers the back is damaged on both units
  14. The seat sliders are very loose
  15. The unit is VERY Dirty... and Very hard to clean

While that is a long list, its nothing that can't be fixed.

I got the units home and started tearing into the steering and force feedback problems so I could play a game with my kids. Starting with the first unit i removed the 4 security Torx screws that hold the wheel in place. Once the metal plate was free 4 bolts fell out along with a metal bracket. They must have backed there way out over the years. The motors belt had fallen off as a result. The metal bracket that came loose is the bracket that stops the wheel from turning to far in one direction.

Great, this should be an easy fix. All I needed to do was put the bolts back into the right place and reset the wheel potentiometer once the wheel was centered. (Turned out this was just one of a few problems with the wheel)

One wheel down. Onto the other unit. The force feedback system only works a little. It seems like the force feedback system will only turn the wheel to the right, not to the left. I started off by removing the logic board that controls the motor. I then put that board into the machine i had fixed previously. The previously working unit now had the same problem as the non-working unit. Crap! I now know the board is faulty and these boards are not cheap.

At the top of the image above you can see that the force feedback control board uses two OPA541AP Operational Amplifier chips that are attached to the large heat-sync. It seems that these chips are a common failure point (thanks google). I ordered 2 new chips off of ebay for $46 USD. The existing chips needed to be removed using a desoldering iron and then the new chips installed. Truthfully one chip would have fixed the problem however I didn't know which chip was bad and 2 chips is cheap insurance that this problem wont happen again. After soldering in both chips the steering worked great for about 2 minutes. Then I hear a pop followed by the smell of burnt electronics. Turns out the OPA chip being blown was only a symptom and not the cause of the problem. I ordered a new chip, found the bad components on the board, replaced everything and tested again. Success!

Now I have two functioning units and was able to play the game with my kids for an hour or two. The next problem that was getting in the way is that one monitor is Very dim. I was able to make the monitor better by adjusting the brightness on the flyback. But this leaves the image all washed out.

At this point its time to buy some parts.

  • 2x Monitor Cap Kits $20USD
  • 2x Monitor Flybacks $60USD
  • 2x Monitor Hot Chips $10USD
  • 2x Monitor Pincushion cap kit $10USD
  • 6x key lock tumblers $26USD
  • 8x Metal plates with leg levers to use when cutting apart the cabinet. $26USD
  • 2x 4GB compact flashcards (to replace the HDD's) $15.57USD
  • 2x Compact flash to IDE adapters (to replace the HDD's) $5.32USD
  • 2x 3.5" power to floppy drive power $1.84USD
  • a new marquee $29USD

Total $203.73 + the chips i bought previously brings the parts total to $249.73

To order those parts i also had some additional costs

  • $50 USD for shipping
  • $10 CAD from Canada Post to create a Money Order
  • $27 CAD to ship the Money Order
  • $20 CAD for the vendor to cash the Money Order (they dont take credit cards or bank transfers from Canadians)

Now my total for parts is $93.19‬ USD + $249.73 = $342.92 USD or $452.57 CAD. This brings the project total for 2 completely working units to $1152.57 CAD (still a pretty good deal)

New parts in hand there are a few more problems that need to be tackled. I started with an easy one. Saved highscores and settings were not been stored after the unit was unplugged.

$5.52 on Amazon

I bought a set of 4x 2032 batteries, popped one in each unit in the middle of the mainboard. Problem solved. Onto the next issue!

Fixing the HDD is up next. Each unit has an old style 4GB IDE drive that stores all the game images and level data. These hard drives are from 1994 according to the warranty sticker and are failing. the fix is simple. Remove the old hard drive, use an IDE to USB adapter to image the drive using the Mame tool chdman to my home computer. Then use the same IDE to USB adapter this time hooked to a solid-state compact flash chip in an adapter. The game will have no idea that the new compact flash chip is different then the old spinning disk. The chdman tool is used again to image the compact flash drive from my local pc. I also saved these files to a DVD and placed them inside the unit in case they are needed in the future.

One of the old IDE HDD drives
The adapter that will be used instead of that drive.

Looking to knock off some more easy problems I replaced the small micro switch on the View 2 button, now it works. The lights inside the buttons were fixed by putting new connectors on the wires that go to each bulb and replacing every light bulb with the appropriatly colored LED.

Arcade Microswitch, I just popped out the larger switch and a new one pops in.
The yellow LED's in the View button and green LED in the Music button makes a big difference!

The Marquee light had 2 problems and was fixed by removing the cover and putting the bulb back into its socket and replacing the bulb starter. Maybe the bulb came out when we were hauling it back to Calgary. At the same time, the new marquee is easily added back during assembly. At this point i tried to clean both marquees and broke the other old one (it was very brittle. So I bought one more new marquee.

The replacement bulb starter (bought from Amazon, $14 for 2x)

Each lock was easily removed by drilling the lock with a 1/4" drill bit.

I had to drill out each lock to get them open.

I then installed 3 new locks in each unit by removing the large screw at the back. Each cabinet need 2 7/8" locks for the coin door and 1x 1 1/8" for the rear wood door on the back. I ordered all 6 locks with the same key for ease of use.

To summarize we still have many problems left to fix.

  1. Both monitors are oversized horizontally and the monitor controls cannot resize the image
  2. One monitor is VERY dark
  3. The seat units are not removable (needs modification to fit into my basement)
  4. The wood around the seats is damaged on both units.
  5. The wood that covers the back is damaged on both units
  6. The seat sliders are very loose
  7. The unit is VERY Dirty... and Very hard to clean

These fit into 4 groups

  1. Woodwork and cleaning
  2. Monitor repair
  3. Seat repair
  4. Cleaning

I decided to conquer monitor repair first.  The monitors both need new cap kits to solve the horizontal size problem, new pincushion caps to fix the alignment problem, and a new Hot chip.  One monitor needs a new flyback to fix the brightness problem.  The other flyback works but it's from 1994 and had visible cracks in it, so I may as well replace it anyway.

The first step is removing the monitor.  The first step is to ground out the suction cup on the back of the monitor.   This suction cup can have a lethal amount of voltage on it so I use a long screwdriver and have one hand behind my back to make sure I don't die.  

Both monitors are the same NeoTec NT-27E monitor made in 1997. Now that the board is removed I use a sharpie to put a black dot on the top of each and every capacitor on the board. This will help me identify which caps have been replaced and not replaced. Once all of the capacitors are replaced and the flyback has been replaced the tube can be cleaned, the circuit board can be cleaned and everything put back together. I used paper towel and distilled water to wash down the tube.  Picture tubes pick up a lot of dust and dirt due to the static electricity that they create.

When put back together things didn't get better, the monitor was still super dim. New caps, new flyback changed nothing with the brightness problem. But it did fix the horizontal resizing problem. In the end, there were 2 bad resistors on the main monitor board that had gone bad. it took me 4+ hours to figure that out over several days.

I set up this station to work on the boards while still connected. This made testing easier.
This was before the resistors were replaced.

Now each monitor works like it did the day it rolled out of the factory in 1997

On to the Woodwork!

The rear door is 3/4" particle board painted black. Over the years it looks like it was dropped a few times and the main wooden bracket that holds the bottom in was removed. The easiest way to make new doors is to use the old door to trace the shape and cutouts onto a new piece of 3/4" MDF. Once complete its painted black and a new wooden bracket is added to the bottom and the new lock is moved over.

New backs completed and installed (the white mark is light coming in from a nearby window.

Now over to fix that wood on the sides of the seat. Removing the seat metal exposes the inside of this cabinet. From the inside, the side support can be accessed and the side removed. The removed wood can then be traced onto a new piece of 1/2" MDF. These were then painted semigloss black to match the original cabinet. Unfortunately, I have not yet found replacement stickers. I have kept the old graphics to scan at a later date so I can make a new sticker and get it printed.

Now the only problem is getting the unit into my basement. There were 2 types of cabinets made at the factory. The first style came with San Francisco rush and the second came with San Francisco rush Alcatraz edition. It would appear that my Alcatraz edition was upgraded from an original San Francisco rush and does not, in fact, come apart. This is easy to fix with a saw and some free time.

The best place to cut the unit is just in front of the rear seat. This seam will not be seen once the unit is assembled. By removing the seat access to the inside of the cabinet will allow for wood supports to be added where bolts can hold the two units together. I also purchased 4 leg levelers for each unit to add on either side of the cut so no additional stress is placed on the joint.

I removed the metal piece from the side of the cabinet and used the white block as a saw guide
And now it's in 2 pieces!
was then able to remove the broken side pieces and sand down the old glue that held them on.

New side laid on to test for fit.
4 new sides ready for T molding and to be nailed on.

Now they were taken into my basement and I started to put them back together again.

With the monitor removed I lied the unit on its back and remounted the now sanded and repainted metal brackets that came with the unit. I also added 2 leg levelers to reduce stress on the joint.

I was then able to add the newly reconstructed seat base (without the seat-mounted yet). I also added 2 leg levelers to this piece to reduce the stress on the joint.

I sanded down the metal seat bases and repainted them as well and added new T molding to the seat bases. I used black T molding because its what I had... I may buy yellow to match the original factory color at a later date.

There are still a few items left to take care of

  1. The seat sliders are very loose
  2. The unit is VERY Dirty... and Very hard to clean

The seat sliders were an easy fix. I found the exact same sliders on a car parts website online. $80 for 2 brand new sets that bolted right in place of the original units. The old units were unfixable and had lost most of the ball bearings that made them slide easily.

Just cleaning and reassembly to go! I took everything back apart and removed all of the electronics from every green plastic piece, this means every speaker, switch and wire.

At this point, I also removed all of the foam gaskets. these were in bad shape anyway and needed to be replaced. Once I had everything apart I took it into the back yard and pressure washed everything with a 3000 PSI pressure washer being careful not to damage the stickers that could not be replaced. I left everything out in the sun and noticed that a lot of the dirt had remained. I ended up scrubbing everything down with orange hand cleaner several times and pressure washing again. Over a few hours, I managed to get each part back to its original green shine.

Now everything started to go back together. I bought new weather stripping to replace the old gaskets. Several thicknesses were required, I told the old gasket to Home Depot and bought the closest match I could find. In the end it all worked perfectly.

You can see the new weather stripping installed here where the green plastic meets the wooden cabinet.
Weather stripping is also added where the glass sits on the green monitor surround.

It was at this point that I noticed that the lower bolt holes on both monitor surrounds were broken, the factory retained T-nuts were broken off. To fix this I drilled out the holes slightly and installed new 1/4x20 Rivnuts that were able to take the factory bolts.

Now with the cabinet all clean I started to focus on cleaning all of the circuit boards. I placed each board in the dishwasher to get off the bulk of the dirt then rinsed each board in distilled water using a new paintbrush to make sure that all the hard water the dishwasher left behind was cleaned off. Everything was then dried with compressed air and left overnight to completely dry off.

Then everything was put back together and some small items were taken care of

  1. I made new monitor surrounds out of large sheets of cardboard from the dollar store, one unit didn't have one at all and the other unit was really dirty and hard to clean. I traced the dirty one out twice and cut out identical copies using a Xacto knife.
  2. I replaced every security bolt with new non-security bolts and new washers. Factory black.
  3. I used a piece of T molding to cover over the joint where the units were cut apart.

Now I have two working clean linked units. Total cost after wood/shipping/parts/etc was around $1340 CAD for the pair. Which is still a pretty good deal. Any units I have found in the past were about $900 each and needed monitor work or cabinet work or both. So I feel I still got a good deal even though the issues were a little more extensive than I had first thought.

24Sep/19

Dead RV Camera

More RV problems. The passenger side camera stopped working.

This is a photo of the back of the monitor, I tried hooking up the passenger side camera to the driver side monitor input. That showed me that the camera was in fact broken.

I removed the two screws that hold the cover on, Using this photo i was able to find an identical replacement on Ebay for $80. The new camera bolted back into the same bracket without any issues. I then filled the hole and screws with silicone.

Always a win when you can fix something on the RV for under $100

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1Aug/19

RV Problems

When heading home from camping last year the engine in the RV started to overheat and the check engine light popped on. I pulled over to let it cool down, no coolant was leaking, everything seemed fine. Once cooled down the RV was fine, I got up to 100Kph and it didn't overheat again. When I pulled it out after it was in winter storage I found that it would stay cool when moving 100Kph but not for stop and go traffic.

I started with the obvious, the thermostat. It can be accessed through the floor between the driver and passenger seats. Unfortunately this did nothing.

Next, I replaced the cap to the coolant reservoir.... turns out I am not that lucky.

next up was the temp sensor. The RV never boiled over or steamed... so i thought that maybe it was just lying about overheating.... replaced the sensor, no change.

Next up was the mechanical cooling fan, for this I needed to buy some new tools, even with these tools the fan is really hard to get to. Anyway, no luck, didn't fix the problem.

So the only things left are the radiator itself or the water pump. the water pump isnt leaking but if I am going to go to all the trouble of removing the radiator I may as well replace the water pump while I am there.

Step one drain all the coolant... there is a TON of it.

I had to remove a bunch of wire clips from the fan shroud. After that, the two bolts from the top of the shroud were removed. The shroud itself is still locked in by the fan clutch.

Now from the front of the RV I dug down to the bolts that hold the top of the radiator down The Airbox had to be removed and some rubber shrouding.

now I could disconnect the trans lines from the radiator and the upper and lower rad hoses. Now it's possible to remove the mechanical fan so it sits inside the fan shroud. Then remove the shroud with the fan inside it. Then the radiator can slide up an inch or two releasing the bottom pins. Then the base can be slid back toward the engine and down to the ground. The RV had to be jacked up 2 feet to make room to fit the radiator out the bottom.

Now I could get to the front of the engine by putting my body where the radiator used to be. I removed the belt and removed the pully from the front of the water pump with a puller. This gives access to the bolts that remove the water pump.

Then the new pump went in using a new O-Ring. Belt was reinstalled, new radiator installed, fan shroud reinstalled with fan loose inside. Fan then bolted back up and all of the lines were reconnected.

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17Jun/19

Camping Projector Mount

A few years ago I purchased an inflatable projection screen that is made out the same material Zodiac boats are made from. We have used this a number of times while camping but the projector is always hard to setup. It requires pulling over a picnic table which obscures the view or piling up logs to try to get the projector in the proper place. The company i work for makes short throw projectors so an experiment needed to take place.

All in all it worked fairly well... but...

I took our factory projector plate and welded a bottom plate to it. I then tapped the plate with 1/4x20 hole to receive the tripod mount.

I would say that this was both a success and a failure. The tripod mount was a win. However short throw projectors should not be used for outdoor screens. The screen moves in the wind and small changes to the screen make large changes in the picture size and shape. So when the wind gusts, the picture moves drastically. Once i got home i created a new plate for my NEC long throw projector. This will work better moving forward.

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22May/19

Windshield

So I called FF to see if i could get a new windshield to replace the one that broke when a gust of wind separated it from the body and blew it across my yard....

Each windshield costs $250 USD... Reasonable enough. I asked FF to quote me the price for 2 shipped to my house (in Canada)

2 windshields international Priority shipped to my door: $4,975.36 CAD
2 windshields international Economy shipped to my door: $4,097.78 CAD
2 windshields shipped to Montana (so i would have to drive for 6 hours to go get them) $1,601.87 CAD, + storage fee at a border crossing receiver + duty at the border ($34 or so)

so about $800 + duty a windshield if I order 2. (still the most expensive piece of glass i will have ever bought in my life.)

So... anyone in Alberta want an extra windshield, this gets cheaper if i go and pick up a few, then we can split the shipping costs. The 6 hour drive will be on me.

20May/19

More GTM Wiring

i used the painless harness, it outputs +12. So to prevent too much surgery i stuck with it. 

Family and i went camping this weekend, came home because it was raining and snowing the whole time. So figured i would spend an hour out in the garage and a few hours running around town shopping.

I bought more wire to complete the power mirror wiring and power window wiring. This wire will also be used for door locks and door poppers.

I went to the junk yard and picked up for wiring harness for the power mirrors. Total cost was $8 with a switch. The switch i bought new has power fold (so it has a silk screen that says power fold)

I bought a small amp wiring kit. I plan to put a small amp behind the passenger seat.

Amp kit came with RCA cables that were way to long, so i bought shorter cables. I also received the new relay box (also in the photo)

These are the two different switches

Wired up to the mirrors on the bench, turns out they are wired differently. The unit with power fold has the motor polarity opposite to the one without power fold. It also turns out that my old diagram had the left and right mirrors backwards.

Here are the new wiring diagrams with the correct right/left mirror and positive to the right side of the motor (so left is left, right is right, etc.)

The silk screen at the bottom of the mirror switch would bug me so i sanded it off with a sugar cube. Sugar cubes work great for removing silk screen from plastic. Now i wont have to use the junk yard unit, I will use the new unit instead.

12May/19

More GTM Wiring

I finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

  1. The reverse relay now triggers with a ground (this uses less wire from the front to the back)
  2. I changed the parking light wiring. The old wiring would only light up the low beams on the front signal lights. There was nothing illuminated on the rear of the vehicle. I'm pretty sure that the law here is that the tail lights need to also light up. I checked all of my factory vehicles, they all light the brakes and the front signals. This needs one more diode, it will also light the side marker lights and the license plate.

Horn is now complete
Wiper fluid motor is now wired.
all front lights and back lights are wired up to the front and rear of the vehicle. I will do the rest once the body is on and i know where the lights end up
I removed all of the unneeded pins from the column harness 

I made a new todo list before mounting the body.... somehow the list got longer, but it is more specific. Here is what i have now.

  1. Wrap Headers
  2. Truck Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
  3. Hood Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
  4. AC illumination wire needs to run to cluster (then i need to find a way to wire it into the dimmer for the existing gauges)
  5. Door Switches (for alarm/foot well lights) I think i will need yet another 5 pole relay for this. (Put the old licence plate lights into each foot well)
  6. Side Marker lights (I have the relays all working, just need wires that go to all 4 corners)
  7. Run reverse light wire to stereo (i have the wires hanging, need loom and to feed it through the grommets)
  8. Assemble and mount cold air intake (ff unit)
  9. Cut floor vent holes in aluminium and rivet the vents on
  10. install the orifice tube in the AC line.... I thought i did this but i found the tube in a box
  11. Extend all the gauge sensor wires so they follow the rest of the loom under the dash.
  12. Extend the wiper motor wires over to the motor.
  13. Finish column wires
  14. Put welding blanket into the tunnel
  15. Get 3M double stick tape to attach the alarm vibration module.
  16. Create wire loom to go into each door (locks/mirrors/windows/speakers/poppers)
  17. Make a bracket to mount the kooks exhaust to the G96 trans
  18. Fix coolant leak (this just started, coming from where the tube connects to the flex line)
  19. Drill the top aluminum sheet (on the dash). cleco it in place for now.
  20. Safety wire the rear axle bolts again.
  21. Rivet on the driver side tunnel aluminum
  22. Install the drivers side gas tank
  23. Install the fuel tank roll over valves
  24. Install the Aeromotive fuel pump controller
  25. Wire the electric column extend wires into the switch (needs a fuse)
  26. Secure the heater bypass valve (need to make a bracket to hold it steady)
  27. put some vacuum line to the heater bypass from the vacuum pump
  28. I need a cigarette lighter power plug somewhere... maybe install the seats to see where there is room.
  29. I bought an amp wiring kit to go behind the passenger seat, need to put in some grommets and get it run though the tunnel

Once thats done i might let some feature creep back in.

  1. Door Poppers, there are lots of extra channels on the alarm, Seems i could use 2 to pop the driver/passenger doors
  2. Rear camera (i ran the power wire already, but need some kind of signal wire, HDMI or RCA)
  3. Line lock (not sure why i want this, spinning R888's would most likely kill the trans quickly)
11May/19

Things finished today

  1. Viper alarm with car starter is 100& wired in (No small Feet, this took most of the day). I also found a place to mount it.
  2. AC Compressor wiring is 100% complete, wired into factory ECU.
  3. AC Air unit is 100% complete
  4. Heater Bypass is installed and wired in
  5. Ign switch is 100% wired in.
  6. All relays are 80% wired in. (Fuses are all installed, Diodes are installed,
  7. Master fuse is installed and 30 amp self resetting fuses are installed for the Engine harness/Painless harness/AC unit/Fuel pump
  8. Hazard lights wiring is complete (diodes installed)
  9. Fog light wiring is complete.

if i can find time tomorrow i will

  • Wire the rear lights
  • Wire the Front lights
  • Wire the horn
  • Wire the wiper spray pump
  • Wire the column switches
  • Extend the wires for the gauges so they fit better.
5May/19

More GTM Progress

I ended up taking a week off away from the car, stuff kept coming up, one night we had over a foot of snow fall over 2 hours and my family and i got stuck on a hill (on a highway) in the middle lane. There were 100+ other cars stuck along with us, even the snow plow that came to save us got stuck right beside us... fun night. My oldest son has been having some medical problems lately so we have had a variety of doctors appointments, Xrays, blood tests, etc. We have pretty good handle on everything now so life should be getting back to normal around here.

I didn't mention before but someone broke into my car the other day, took the garage door opener and used it to gain entry into my garage while my family and i were asleep. They stole all of my hunting gear and seemly random tools and parts from around the garage. The annoying part is not that they stole thousands of dollars worth of stuff but more that fact that ever time i go out there and try to find a part i get frustrated because i don't know if i misplaced it or if it was stolen. The latest one i noticed was a bucket i had filled with new AN fittings, it also had the little wire for calibrating the gauges in it along with the wires for controlling the gauge backlights..... Gone!. I ordered two new cables from SpeedHut, cost was about $26USD, but shipping was $44USD. So those two small cables just cost me $100 Cad... arg. So far i have counted up $4000 worth of missing tools and parts. 

KGTM was nice enough to send me his unused floor vents. 

I found this picture from an old post made by Shoeless, this is how he made a opening for those vents just under the AC unit. I plan to install them just like this. Should be fairly easy to drill holes on each side then make two straight cuts with the side grinder. I did think about making these openings above the AC unit but that wont be possible, space up there is at a premium.

here are the cancer causing grommets installed. I love these grommets, they will seal very well and can be sized by cutting away the back half of the grommet. After i ordered these i saw a post where someone just took a PVC pipe and put it straight over and sealed around the pipe. Thats a great idea, if i had do do this again i would do it that way as it would provide more space, and after the dash is closed up it would remain accessible.

I realized i have not had a picture of the whole car in a while, truthfully its less together now then it was a month ago... two steps forward, sometimes 5 steps back 🙂

My Alarm finally arrived, its a Viper 5706. It has remote start, alarm, vibration sensor, tilt sensor, window roll up module, 2 way remote, and it has a phone app with GPS tracking. I am installing this unit now because it has to wire into all of the core cars systems like ignition, door sensors, hood switches, windows, door locks. I have to find a home for this somewhere up under the dash, space under there is hard to find right now.

I complained before that FF didn't supply the fog light wiring. I was wrong, they did supply it, it was in the packaging for the fog lights themselves. They come with a switch, fuses and a relay holder. I think i will just use some of the raw wire around the car, I will cut out the fuses, relay and switch.

For the headlights/brights and daytime running lights i did something a little different. I wired the headlights to be always on (along with the tail lights). This fits my countries laws for day time running lights. The headlight switch on the stalk now controls the fog lights when headlights are selected. Switching on the brights will turn off the fog lights and switch the headlights to brights. This also helps me remove one more switch from the dash.

24Apr/19

GTM Progress

The horn ground ring had to be modified to fit. This is what i had to do. After i cut off the majority of the collar i used a file to remove the sharp bits. 

These are the two relays for the VA unit. I had to remove these connectors to fit the wires though a grommet.

These are the new door switches i bought. Not to be installed soon, need the body on first. They just arrived in the mail.

This is the new electic mirror control switch, Also just arrived in the mail.

Door unlock solenoids arrived in the mail as well.

I hooked the mirrors up on the bench and verified that the motors work and the wires work the way i think they do. I still need the connector for the switch before i can test the system as a whole.

I adjusted the fuel pump filters to make room for the factory five cold air intake. I think this will leave just enough room. It will make it a little hard to read the fuel pressure gauge but i dont see that as a big deal.