How do you know you can't do something if you haven't tried


Something not car related.

Its time to get the RV out so i started by charging the batteries.

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So i started thinking about how i can get TV shows and movies out to the RV.  So i came up with a pretty slick system.

  1. The RV now has a networked storage device with 6TB of storage (Built out of parts i had kicking around)
  2. The storage device connects to a router running OpenWRT that automatically bridges to my home network when its in range.
  3. I have a script running on my home server that launches every hour and looks for the storage device
  4. If the storage device is found it starts to sync
    1. All kids movies sync, it will delete any movies that were previously synced that no longer are marked as kids movies.
    2. All unwatched parents TV shows, it also cleans up and deletes anything that has been watched since the last sync.
    3. The top 50 unwatched movies.
    4. The ROMS folders that contain NES/SNES/etc games.
  5. Thats it.
    So the end result:I pull the RV in front of the house (like i do before every trip), I plug in shore power to the house overnight to top up the batteries and test everything.  This causes the storage box to automatically boot up and the router to auto connect which allows the movies to auto sync.  Now when we start out on our trip we have TB's of new TV and Movies to watch.

Productive Week, I took some time off work.

So i took a week off work to work on the car. From my previous list these items are now complete.

  1. Check that i mounted down all steering bolts. (torque to spec, with thread lock)
  2. Find bolts that will fit though the new trans mount. (starter bolts fit perfect)
  3. Finish front aluminum,
  4. Rivet radiator down again.
  5. Attach the heater lines again
  6. Fill with coolant (24 litres in there so far, once the engine starts i bet it gets to 30ish)
  7. Mount fuel pump+filters
  8. Mount fuel rails
  9. Create metal mounting point for the fuel regulator
  10. Create a metal floor to mount the fuel pump to on the drivers side)
  11. Create a metal plate to mount the engine bay fuses to.
  12. Fill engine with oil.
  13. Grease all zerks
  14. Install new plug wires. (i have them in a box.... somewhere)
  15. Mount Starter, (new bolt is on order)
  16. Mount ECU, (I already modified the bracket)
  17. Run wiring harness. (I had to change a few ends but i would highly recommend buying a premade one like i did.)
  18. Exhaust (just the factory/GTM stuff for now, Kooks ordered)
  19. Aircond, finish plumbing

These items i missed off my last list are also complete

  1. Engine Grounded (had to buy a few grounding straps for engine/trans)
  2. Fix clutch leak at slave
  3. Fix brake leak at reservoir
  4. Drained the old oil, replaced the filter
  5. Replace the broken bolt on the suspension and find a bolt for the cable shift bracket.
  6. Created block off plates for the air system on the exhaust
  7. Plugged the EGR tubes on the intake
  8. Basic alignment (using tape measure, to be fixed by the pros later)
  9. Install the heater bypass valve (I think this came from crash's site, i bought it a while ago)

These items are still left (but most of these are not stopping me from starting it)

  1. Mount clutch peddle stop (Visited a few hardware stores and came up with a plan, just have to install it)
  2. Wire the radiator fan in. (harness is done but i don't have the connectors for the fans, ordered new ones off Ebay, will be here soon)
  3. Mount the seat (ordered rails from Amazon, not delivered yet)
  4. Fill AC lines. (R134a doesn't seem to exist in Canada anymore, all the kits i can find are 22a, Walmart seems to sell R134a online, i will try that)
  5. Install some kind of fusable link between the engine and the starter/alternator (big positive cable beside the exhaust scares me)
  6. Fill Trans with oil. (Found on Amazon for $40 a litre, its a rip off buy my only choice, i ordered it)
  7. I lost (or maybe never took off the donor) the MAF sensor.... cant start the car without it. (ordered a new one)
  8. Find a way to finish the emergency brake. (I will have to order a longer brake cable, its good enough for now.)
  9. Mount aluminum pieces that go beside the fuel tanks. (have to drill them for the cross over pipe)
  10. Mount fuel tank (I bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 rubber at a local hardware store, I will cut a few 2x4 style strips out of it to build a rubber version of the wooden 2x4 that everyone seems to use)
  11. Secure down each of the fuel line connectors
  12. Mount the pillow bearing by the peddle box, the current FFR part isn't large enough to mount the bearing, i will need to weld some new metal on.

I also had my 2 post lift fail which took about 5 hours to fix. The passenger side of the lift stuck fully extended and wouldn't go down, but the drivers side did go down. The car was sitting VERY crooked, I could have dropped the car if I wasn't paying attention. I had to prop up the system with a 2x4 and a floor jack. I then tried to fix the high pressure line fittings that were leaking.... While i did fix the leak the jack would still not descend. I then figured out that i had to much rear weight after the engine and transmission were installed, that was causing the part of the lift that moves up and down to push against the rear of the housing with a TON of force. I jacked up the rear of the car and with a loud BAMM! the whole thing settled onto the safety stops again. Once the car was back on the ground i was able to re-position the jack points, grease the inside of the lift and test it again. WORKS! Was a very stressful couple of hours as the car could have slipped off and fallen 6 feet to the floor. (it was sitting pretty crooked until i could get it to dislodge)

I have completely planned out the fuel system, everything is mocked up now with the proper AN connectors and nice stainless steel braided hoses. I should have done more research on the costs associated with the aluminum tanks mixed with proper AN connectors. So far the fuel system alone has set me back about $5000, that's for rails, tanks, AN ends and fittings, filters, pump, regulator, gauges, hoses, chrome mounts, etc. However if a had to do it again i don't think i would change a thing..... except for the bad planning that left me with tons of extra hose and AN fittings.

I think the best part of this progress was how much floor space i gained in the garage. Its now easier to walk around the car and work.

I think this was the end of day one
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Fuel pump and filter location
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This is how i mounted them, they are SOLID as a rock, the filters are bolted together and then held in place by the solid AN fittings. I was a little worried at first by putting the weight on them like this but you can use the filters as a handle and hang off this thing, its solid.
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Regulator mounting location, i cut a piece of steel, it will be welded in soon. (I have since replaced some of these AN fittings to change the routing.
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It was the first really nice day of the year so i brought out the RV batteries and went out to un-winterize the Winnebago.
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This is the grease i used on the ball joints
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This is the 3/4 thick rubber sheet... or at least part of it. I cut all the gas tank bases out of it (2 strips 2 layers each side)
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More shots of the rubber, i used black silicone to stick the rubber to the metal and the top rubber piece to the bottom rubber piece.
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tank set back in now sits perfectly level.
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Some photos of the progress before the last day.
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I will get some photos tomorrow of the exhaust installed.

Its funny how it really doesn't look much different then it did 8 days ago but it sure does have allot more effort into it.


found some time to go out today.

Today was problem solving day.

1) i welded new transmission mounts the other day however its impossible to get the bolt in because the support was in the way. I welded two new braces on and moved the support forward 3" on the passenger side. Repainted everything and put it back on the car again. Problem solved.

2) I had a stupid moment and put the eccentric bolts in and mounted all of the suspension before i put the aluminum foot boxes in. I had not noticed that i had the bolt in the wrong way around so it can never be removed. It just so happens that the pieces i bought from Shane have to be welded to the bolt that now cant be removed. So....... I had to drill out a fair amount of rivets, removed the bolt, and then put them all back.

3) the brake line supports prevented me from installing the floor aluminum, had to drill out those rivets, mount the floor aluminum then put it all back.

4) the clutch master cylinder leaks where the reservoir plastic meets the metal cylinder.... I have tried to fix this 5 times with no luck before today. So today i took it all apart, hit the plastic with a heat gun like the instructions originally asked for until the plastic was softer. I then remounted it and cranked the crap out of the bolt that holds it on. Refilled and bled the system again. I then put a piece of paper under it for a few hours...... no drips yet.

We live and we learn.... today wasn't a step backwards but it sure as hell didn't get me any ways forward.

I ordered these parts today from Chev
- Another Starter bolt (I need two of the factory longer ones for the new starter)
- Metal mount for EVAP canister
- Bolts for exhaust manifold
- Exhaust studs for mounting headers GM dealership, GM# 12561310.
- Bracket that holds the brake light switch (forgot to take this off the donor)

Still have to find.
- transmission fluid (the gear oil everyone recommends on the Porsche forum's isn't available in Canada)

so by my calculations this is whats left before i can drive it around the block.

  1. check that i mounted down all steering bolts.
  2. find bolts that will fit though the new trans mount.
  3. finish front aluminum,
  4. rivet radiator down again.
  5. attach the heater lines again
  6. Fill with coolant
  7. Find a way to finish the emergency brake. (I will have to order a longer brake cable, its good enough for now.)
  8. Mount aluminum pieces that go beside the fuel tanks.
  9. Mount fuel tank (not going to use a 2x4)
  10. Mount pump+filters
  11. plumb fuel lines
  12. Fill engine with oil.
  13. Fill Trans with oil. (have to buy it first)
  14. grease all zerks
  15. install new plug wires. (i have them in a box.... somewhere)
  16. Mount Starter, (new bolt is on order)
  17. Mount clutch peddle stop (read the forum post where this caused damage when it was missed)
  18. Mount ECU, (I already modified the bracket)
  19. Run wiring harness. (I bought a premade one, this should be quick)
  20. Mount the seat (sliding rails are $250 each side locally... i might have to hit a junk yard to see what i can find.)
  21. Exhaust (just the factory/GTM stuff for now, I have to buy the kooks)
  22. Aircond, finish plumbing, fill AC lines.

somewhat productive day.

I have everything between me and gokart in a checklist now, I made it though a small portion of that list today.

I had to remove the rad to get the drill to mount the grounding strap. (I should have mounted this earlier, whoops)
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I mounted up the rear trans support cut the old brackets to fit the new transmission and tack welded them in place. This is where i ran into a problem that i am still scratching my head on how to fix. The bolts that need to go though the bracket and trans are now blocked by the square tube that runs down, I think my only option is to cut the square tube, weld in a smaller tube that fits inside and then drill a bolt hole though. This would allow the metal thats in the way to be removed, bolt put in, then reattached.
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Gas tanks look great. I have been reading about how to mount these... i'm not a big fan of the 2x4 method, wood seems wrong somehow.
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this is the clutch banjo and flexible line that i ended up with. Its all bled now.
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I took apart the donor gas peddle, painted it black, mocked it up, drilled the holes, put in the rivnuts, now just waiting for the paint to dry before mounting one last time.
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Getting back into it.

so i have been off traveling for work for the last month... back now and ready to get back into it.

lots of parts arrived while i was gone,

  1. the aluminum fuel tanks from Boyd
  2. the heater bypass kit
  3. the rest of the fuel system fittings
  4. the M12 banjo bolt for the clutch

Tonight i went to a local car show then came home and finished the clutch plumbing and bleeding. I was shocked to see a GTM at the show. It was in about the same state as mine, not quite running but almost there. It looked like a twin turbo LS7 setup, its all being built by a local shop, doesn't look like the owner is doing anything himself. I grabbed the shops card so i can try and get a hold of the owner later.

I worked for a month straight without weekends or evenings so i have a few weeks of time off saved up, the current plan is to take a week off next month to focus on finishing the gokart.


this is the GTM i saw at the Calgary car show.

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Weekend well spent.

I started off the weekend by filling/bleeding the brakes. I had a 2 air leaks that took me a while to track down. The first was in the fitting at the top of the master cylinder which caused me to have to rerun the front brake line. Once the leaks were gone the lines bled easily.

I locktite'd, torqued and safety wired the axels. This process took no less then 6 hours. The drilling of the bolts took the majority of the time. Most of my drill bits are brand new and couldn't make a dint in the hard bolts using my drill press. I bought a set of BigDog bits a while back at tradeshow, they worked like MAGIC for about 3 bolts before the titanium ends broke off. They were able to drill through the bolts like butter. I bought safety wire pliers which made short work of actually getting everything wired up.

I then took the time to adjust the CableShift unit so i could get through all the gears without the shifter hitting sides or bottoming out the cables. I then spend the next 10 minutes or so sitting in the drivers seat shifting gears while making vroom vroom noises with my daughter, its a toss up for who had more fun.

I shifted focus to the ebrake, the one from the doner was covered in rust so i soaked it in rust remover
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This is the after shot. (about 2 hours later)
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It wouldn't fit because it was quite bent. I don't think this is factory, i think someone must have bent it by pulling WAY to hard.
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I bent it back to flat and then a little bit more in the other direction so it clears the center console.
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Connections to the rear went together as planned..
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Where have people been mounting this piece. I saw that Shane has a kit but it wont fit because my starter is in the same mounting location.
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I shifted my attention to the AC lines. I started by putting in all the lines loosely (heater/AC)
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I could not get the evap unit to sit where the manual says. Upon further investigation (by watching FastThings videos) i saw that it mounts better just behind the coolant tank. The reason i couldn't get the unit to fit there was because i used the 6" extension as the manual stated.... i will be removing that 6" piece, which is a shame because it was a ***** to get it in there in the first place.
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The heater lines come with fittings that turn 90 degrees. why? it seems this would be easier to plumb if they were straight fittings.
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These seals were in the box with the AC pieces... what are they?
were they supposed to go on the AC compressor fitting?
Does anyone know what these are for.
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I also have a few parts on order
1) I ordered the heater bypass solenoid from Crash's website today.
2) Fuel tanks should be finished this week and shipped out (they are being custom made by Boyd's). They have AN fittings and a fuel pickup in the drivers side and a sending unit on the passenger side.
3) Aeromotive fuel rails should be here next week
4) M12 banjo bolt and fitting for the clutch

I head out to CES (Tradeshow) on Tuesday, back for a few days then off to Bett in London (Another Tradeshow), back for a few days then off to ISE in Amsterdam (yet another Tradeshow)..... so it might be a while before i post another update. 🙂 I do plan on getting some Traction control planning done in my other thread while traveling.



For anyone in Alberta Canada like me, I have found the basic rules for what needs to be completed before being certified to run on the road.

There might be a more recent version of this but i couldn't find one.


Progress, progress, progress…

First the current road blocks... The Medeola slave cylinder uses an M10 banjo bolt and banjo fitting that came with the GTM. I used G96 transmission that seems to use an M12-1 banjo bolt and fitting. I visited 6 automotive stores none carry M12... all carry M10.. I guess M12 is not common. I ended up ordering an M12-1 bolt from Vancouver if it fits I will pick up the fitting from the internet somewhere.

Safety wire was hard to find but i finally found a shop that carried it. I also bought the fancy spinning pliers because i can never pass up an excuse to buy a new tool.... I also bought 3 new torque wrenches and 3 new ratchets.

I picked up almost all of the required fluids like coolant, Dot 3 brake fluid, engine oil. However i still have to pickup transmission fluid, seems most people on line are very picky about what they use.... I think i might pick up transmission fluid directly from Porsche.

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I bought my fuel pump/filters/mounts/regulator/rails and most of the required fittings for the fuel system.

I have ordered some new parts
Sway bar:
Fuel Tanks:
Door Switches

All in all this week cost about $4000... the value of the Canadian dollar is killing me.

Still enjoying it though 🙂


Another day another issue to work through

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The shifter mounted a little different then the images on the vspeedworks site My shifter ends about 1" more forward then the images on that site. Not exactly sure why but I am tall, that comes with long arms so 1" further away from the seat might be a good thing.

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This banjo fitting doesn't have a bolt so i will need to buy one. The manual simply says "use the supplied bolt"... not sure what it was supposed to be included with. (I have two slave cylinders, i didn't get a bolt with either)

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Axles fit right in, I just need to put some thread lock on the bolts and get them locked down.

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The rear bump steer kit just arrived, postmarked from last Tuesday (3 weeks after i was told it was shipped...) regardless its here and looks great! Now i just need to get all the bolts locked down.
Brake lines are now 100% complete, I will pick up some brake fluid on the way home from work tomorrow.


I mounted the battery tray and washer fluid bottle. I will use a small piece of tube with a bolt though it to secure the top of the washer bottle. That will ensure that it doesn't move at all. I drove all over town looking for the last fittings for the brakes, turns out no one carry's brake line fittings anymore because "there is no money in it". I went to 5 automotive stores and received the same response at each one. (I ordered them off Amazon, should be here soon). In the meanwhile i used the fitting that came with the master cylinder and the T that was supposed to be used at the back of the car. Works great.
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Robb was over, he welded in the VSpeedworks cable shift mount kit that i bought. Fit perfect, was short one bolt (kit comes with 6 bolts, requires 7 if you follow the pictures on the site).
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This is the welder that i had to wire into the garage, works amazing.
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Shifter installed
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I finally figured out how to mount the shifter cables to the trans. Turns out the bracket that came with the trans is a perfect fit. I just had to remove the bracket flip it over 180 degrees and put it back together. Not sure how i didn't see that before.
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the rear bump steer kit that i bought 2 months ago still isn't here yet. I was told it shipped over a month ago, I have called the company that I ordered it from 5 times, they seem to have no idea where it is. I might have to cancel the Visa payment on it and cut ties with that company to get my money back.... ARRGGG.

I started putting on the front bump steer kit. I don't quite understand how its supposed to go together or how it would help with bump steer. It mounts in the same way the factory unit mounts and has almost the same clearance. I also don't see how it would be adjustable... is that what all the washers are for? is that how it adjusts? If so it doesn't adjust by much.

I finished putting the axles together and got stuck on the Porsche side clips. Only one C Clip was in the box... I needed one more 1" clip, once again i hit every automotive store around me and turned up nothing. I had to order a kit containing 300 clips for $8 off the internet, that should be here soon as well.

I think i'm going to have to install the AC lines next before the coolant system because its easier to climb in the front without the radiator.