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5Feb/150

Parts, Parts, Parts

So been a few days without a real status update.

  • Put another coat of red/black paint on the brake parts (this stuff takes forever to dry and goes on really thick)
  • Last of the ball joints came in the mail, they will be in the A arms and knuckles tomorrow
  • finally had a chance to pick up the pieces to reassemble the parking brake.
  • Decided i that i may as well replace a few more parts that are not broken... bought new flexible brake lines for all 4 corners, bought new guide pins and guide pin boots. (easy to replace while its all apart harder to replace later so why not)

I will have time to get the parts all assembled this weekend.

1Feb/150

GTM Status Update

If you reading this message and you are planning on a GTM build using donor parts you might want to reconsider. I have been looking at the prices on rock auto and cost all in after buying new ball joints, brake pads, rotors, brake rebuild kits, new brake lines, cleaning chemicals, and paint is really close to buying new. (off rock auto website)

I would still clear coat all the parts even if i bought them new.

Here are the items i am waiting on still
1) brake rebuild kits
2) 6 of the ball joints
3) brake line bending tool
4) new flexible brake lines
5) Paperwork from Transport Canada to import the kit with.
6) Canadian GTM Kit
7) FF GTM kit

Items left to work on while waiting
1) Make the engine sparkle (cleaner/ paint)
2) Mount the new clutch i bought
3) Finish painting brakes (this high temp brake paint takes FOREVER to dry)
4) Clean the garage!

Items i still need to order
1) Lug nuts (man these are expensive.... $75 was the cheapest i found so far)
2) Transaxel (mendeola)
3) Toyota short throw shifter http://www.twmperformance.com/shorts...rtshifters.htm
4) Body mods from Vspeed...
5) Exhaust from Vspeed...
6) Move Rivets (I hear the kit doesn't come with enough)
7) Air powered rivet guns (totally worth it)

The only other news is that i found a home for the body while i work on the go-Kart. Its all the way across town but it can sit in someone elses garage so it doesn't get in the way.

30Jan/150

More Possibilities

So last night i did a little more research on the car PC idea, I can write the whole thing in the unity 3D gaming engine. (Software is free for 30 days, then i could just install it on another PC :-))

Pros

  • Gaming engine is easy to use (and can be scripted in 3 programing languages that i know)
  • It supports sound (play stop ff rew) so adding MP3 player functionality would be easy
  • Supports Video textures, so i could have a DVD player/ movie player app. Can also work with 3D so you could do cool animations like flying into the car and zooming into the 3D representation of the touch screen while loading the movie.
  • has an easy API
  • Has EQ functionality built right in, so i could have a multiband EQ
  • Supports Webcams
  • Someone wrote a NAV system already and offers the code for $65. its capable of using maps downloaded from Bing/Google/Garmin etc and support downloading of traffic data from the internet https://www.assetstore.unity3d.com/en/#!/content/13261
  • Could easily connect to the internet via a tethered cell phone or cellular USB stick.

Using the Unity API I could

  • Integrate to my ODB2 adapter
  • Integrate to my TPMS sensors
  • Start the car (using microprocessor)
  • Lock or unlock the doors (using microprocessor
  • See the status of door locks, doors opening, hood opening, etc
  • Using a microprocessor there is nothing that i couldn't monitor (gforce, hood open, door open, battery draw, suspension compression, etc)

Unity is also multi platform which means this code would work on a PC, IOS, Blackberry or and Android tablet/phone (although ODB2/TPMs/remote start/Door Unlock would have to be done via HTTP or TCP if i don't use a PC). So if i want a low voltage, instant on for say the gauge cluster in the dash i could use a hacked up android tablet or IPad.

If I do integrate the ODB2 adapter (i have a few Bluetooth ones lying around) I could have MPG, Average speed, RPM, Engine Temp, etc all available. If I use a PC instead of an IPAD i could run two displays, one touch screen in the center console and the other as the main gauge cluster. Using a 3D engine would allow me to have the gauges fly in when starting the car or drip in like a thick fluid from the top, etc. It would be easy to add virtual tire temp lights that could indicate when the tires were warm enough to take a quick corner, or add a G sensor that could indicate on a dial how close you are to spinning out.

The PC could also easily do data logging taking the information from the ABS sensors, ODB2, and TPMS and streaming them to a database on a USB key for later playback.

I could create a virtual drag racing tree that could measure reaction time (using ODB2 of the brake/gas pedals) and 0-60 as well as quarter mile times based of the odometer or ABS sensor data.

Hell you could even cheat a drag racing by using the webcam on the front of the car. Write some code to have it recognize the tree at the drag strip, when the light yellow it starts to increase the RPM past what the brakes can hold, when the light goes green it could use a solenoid to release the brake for you. Coupled with launch control you could dial in its ability to cross the start line at the precise ms that the light goes green. (I'm sure there are rules against this)

I will think about it some more but I'm sure I will be putting in all these systems while i build the car. I may leave the programing portions until after the car is finished. It will give me a fun project moving forward with the car. Something i can continue to improve upon and add features to.

29Jan/150

Possibilties

I Went to sleep thinking about the possibilities for the 3D GTM Model

Once completed i could easily 3D print this model at work. I could easily create a 12" long scale model of the GTM (no molds).
I could use the 3D model to create a really cool interface for the car using centrafuse and a custom plugin. I could have a 3D rendering of the car spin around when tire pressure is low (TPMS) and blink the tire that is low red while showing the current tire temp/pressure as an overlay. The 3D doors could open when the real doors are are left open, the hatch could open and display engine codes. Possibilities are endless.

From a past project I have a car PC with a 3D card in my garage already. This computer has 12 volt switched/constant inputs and monitors battery voltage, times when the PC turns on and off (so when you get gas it stays on). Its small and would mount behind the driver seat easily. The only problem is that all in (wiring etc) it weighs 10 pounds with the touch screen..... not sure if I want to make the car heavier.

I used to use this software on the pc http://www.centrafuse.com/us/. Complete with maps/rear camera/front camera/Hands free phone/TPMS/Movies/Music/Radio/etc. The software leaves a little to be desired but its customizable and skinable.

... The wheels are spinning ...

28Jan/150

3D GTM

So, no progress on the real car today but I did manage to almost complete a fairly close digital render of the GTM. Truth be told i stole these files out of a popular video game, used a 3rd party game developer tool to convert to a 3ds file. I then separated it into parts and converted it to Sketchup format (free 3D tool)

Hood, body, hatch, wheels, windows, and 30 other parts for the Gen 1 and Gen 2 were all converted. I will combine those Gen 2 files into one sketchup file and then use that to test out different paint combinations.

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27Jan/150

Rims and Tires

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Mounted and balanced.

Another $117 I didn't account for 🙂

26Jan/150

Rims are here

Its a good day, came home to 4 new rims a box from Jegs and a box from RockAuto.

Just waiting on one more RockAuto order that contains the ball joints.

Tomorrow I will have the tires mounted and balanced, can't wait to see them together.

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25Jan/150

So a few days have passed since the last post.

My family and I have been sick for the last few days so progress has been slow.

I picked up some "Metal Rescue" from CanadianTire and filled an ice cream bucket. I then completely submerged the wheel bearing assemblies. After 4 hours these things are spotless, no rust, no oil, look brand new. Now its possible that this isn't good for the wheel bearing itself, time will tell. My theory was that this part has to be water tight because of its location. So far the wheel bearings are spinning a little easier then before, I think this is due to the reduction in surface rust. I plan to paint these black with some high temp paint.

I also picked up a better grease remover from CanadianTire (see photos). Using this new degreaser I was able to clean some of the harder to clean pieces. I also used the new degreaser to clean of the brake calipers. I then followed that up with a wire brush and some brake cleaner. These are now ready for paint, I plan on painting them red/black (caliper red, mounting bracket black)

I used a winch strung off through the attic hatch and over 2 rafters to lift the engine off the pallet that it was on. My buddy and I then mounted the engine down to a stand with wheels. This allows better access to the front and sides and makes the overall size smaller so it will easily fit into the corner of the garage. I then removed the power steering pump, water pump, AC bracket, etc so I can start to clean the rest of the engine. (I do have a friend with an engine hoist, so far I have been to lazy to pick it up)

I ordered new tie rods so I started to remove the old tie rod ends. These nuts were locked on and required some heat to expand the nut and loosen them up. Old Tie Rods are now off waiting for the new parts to come in the mail. I will hit these with a little black paint to make them look better.

Once the new ball joints come in I can start putting the suspension back together. In the meanwhile I have been researching fuel system options including which aluminum tanks to go with (there are two kinds) and which fuel rail/pump/regulator/filter combination to run with.

Does anyone know if the Aeromotive rails fit under the factory engine covers?

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21Jan/150

List of websites for parts i plan on picking up.

B- quiet is Canadian made and is the same as Dynamat. Need a 50' role.
http://b-quiet.com/products-3/b-quiet-ultimate/

This is a good site if you are not sure of a parts, they have it imaged like a micro fish. (old school)
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/productSe...key_category=0

You need to get a set of these Cleco fasteners, the pliers and 1/8 set. Order two extra set of the 1/8 and 3/16. A must have.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...60577/10002/-1

Bed liner kit:
http://www.offshoreautobodysupplies....black-w-o-gun/

For extra rivnuts: They don't supply enough. 1/4" bolt and 1/8.
The bolt house or Fastenal.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/fasteners/riveting-self-clinching-products/_/Navigation?intcmp=hpcat-riveting_and_self_clinching&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600191 Riveting 9and Self-Clinching Products"|~

The speedo you get is in miles per hour I will have to buy a new one. Speed hut is the brand. The kool thing is you can custom the speedo. Put your car number and FF racing
http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/4-inc...%7C37:4%7C38:2
http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM4-S...ic-programable

Lights and components: all lights come with kit but the connectors and boots. These just finish off the signal lights.
http://www.rallylights.com/all/elect...0mm-lamps.html
http://www.rallylights.com/

20Jan/150

Daily Update

I have been out in the garage for most of the evening, my fingers are numb, i'm sick with a cold and have a pounding headache. Regardless it didn't keep me out of the garage. Fun enough i have so many cuts on my hands from cleaning parts that my iphone wont unlock with my finger print anymore. Aluminum is SHARP!

I am down to the last knuckle and A arm, i am letting them sit in degreaser overnight, they are rough, like someone pored oil on them and drove down a dirt road. 2 hours cleaning them and they now to the point the others started. Once that was done i decided to move over to some engine cleaning, figured a top down approach should work best. I have swapped engines in the past but never cared enough to make them spotless so this is new territory for me. I started by removing the coil packs, and then the metal mounts that the coils mount to, followed by the wiring harness as a whole. I was then able to remove the fuel rail and the air intake. Throttle body came off after that followed by the valve covers. I used gunk degreaser to carefully remove the gunk being careful to keep it out of the engine. I used non scratching SOS pads and a soft bristle brush to get into those hard to reach areas.

Tomorrow i may pull off the accessories and start cleaning the mounts, bolts and accessories themselves.
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