Canadiangeek.net How do you know you can't do something if you haven't tried

29Jan/150

Possibilties

I Went to sleep thinking about the possibilities for the 3D GTM Model

Once completed i could easily 3D print this model at work. I could easily create a 12" long scale model of the GTM (no molds).
I could use the 3D model to create a really cool interface for the car using centrafuse and a custom plugin. I could have a 3D rendering of the car spin around when tire pressure is low (TPMS) and blink the tire that is low red while showing the current tire temp/pressure as an overlay. The 3D doors could open when the real doors are are left open, the hatch could open and display engine codes. Possibilities are endless.

From a past project I have a car PC with a 3D card in my garage already. This computer has 12 volt switched/constant inputs and monitors battery voltage, times when the PC turns on and off (so when you get gas it stays on). Its small and would mount behind the driver seat easily. The only problem is that all in (wiring etc) it weighs 10 pounds with the touch screen..... not sure if I want to make the car heavier.

I used to use this software on the pc http://www.centrafuse.com/us/. Complete with maps/rear camera/front camera/Hands free phone/TPMS/Movies/Music/Radio/etc. The software leaves a little to be desired but its customizable and skinable.

... The wheels are spinning ...

28Jan/150

3D GTM

So, no progress on the real car today but I did manage to almost complete a fairly close digital render of the GTM. Truth be told i stole these files out of a popular video game, used a 3rd party game developer tool to convert to a 3ds file. I then separated it into parts and converted it to Sketchup format (free 3D tool)

Hood, body, hatch, wheels, windows, and 30 other parts for the Gen 1 and Gen 2 were all converted. I will combine those Gen 2 files into one sketchup file and then use that to test out different paint combinations.

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	GTMRender.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	104.1 KB 
ID:	38191

27Jan/150

Rims and Tires

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0327.JPG 
Views:	36 
Size:	545.6 KB 
ID:	38152

Mounted and balanced.

Another $117 I didn't account for 🙂

26Jan/150

Rims are here

Its a good day, came home to 4 new rims a box from Jegs and a box from RockAuto.

Just waiting on one more RockAuto order that contains the ball joints.

Tomorrow I will have the tires mounted and balanced, can't wait to see them together.

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0325.JPG 
Views:	1 
Size:	113.4 KB 
ID:	38135Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0326.JPG 
Views:	1 
Size:	126.8 KB 
ID:	38136

25Jan/150

So a few days have passed since the last post.

My family and I have been sick for the last few days so progress has been slow.

I picked up some "Metal Rescue" from CanadianTire and filled an ice cream bucket. I then completely submerged the wheel bearing assemblies. After 4 hours these things are spotless, no rust, no oil, look brand new. Now its possible that this isn't good for the wheel bearing itself, time will tell. My theory was that this part has to be water tight because of its location. So far the wheel bearings are spinning a little easier then before, I think this is due to the reduction in surface rust. I plan to paint these black with some high temp paint.

I also picked up a better grease remover from CanadianTire (see photos). Using this new degreaser I was able to clean some of the harder to clean pieces. I also used the new degreaser to clean of the brake calipers. I then followed that up with a wire brush and some brake cleaner. These are now ready for paint, I plan on painting them red/black (caliper red, mounting bracket black)

I used a winch strung off through the attic hatch and over 2 rafters to lift the engine off the pallet that it was on. My buddy and I then mounted the engine down to a stand with wheels. This allows better access to the front and sides and makes the overall size smaller so it will easily fit into the corner of the garage. I then removed the power steering pump, water pump, AC bracket, etc so I can start to clean the rest of the engine. (I do have a friend with an engine hoist, so far I have been to lazy to pick it up)

I ordered new tie rods so I started to remove the old tie rod ends. These nuts were locked on and required some heat to expand the nut and loosen them up. Old Tie Rods are now off waiting for the new parts to come in the mail. I will hit these with a little black paint to make them look better.

Once the new ball joints come in I can start putting the suspension back together. In the meanwhile I have been researching fuel system options including which aluminum tanks to go with (there are two kinds) and which fuel rail/pump/regulator/filter combination to run with.

Does anyone know if the Aeromotive rails fit under the factory engine covers?

Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0315.JPG 
Views:	13 
Size:	135.6 KB 
ID:	38109Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0317.JPG 
Views:	13 
Size:	101.6 KB 
ID:	38110Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0318.JPG 
Views:	13 
Size:	111.2 KB 
ID:	38111Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0319.JPG 
Views:	13 
Size:	100.8 KB 
ID:	38112Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0320.JPG 
Views:	12 
Size:	97.4 KB 
ID:	38113Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0321.JPG 
Views:	13 
Size:	135.5 KB 
ID:	38114Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0322.JPG 
Views:	12 
Size:	115.4 KB 
ID:	38115Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0323.JPG 
Views:	12 
Size:	121.5 KB 
ID:	38116

21Jan/150

List of websites for parts i plan on picking up.

B- quiet is Canadian made and is the same as Dynamat. Need a 50' role.
http://b-quiet.com/products-3/b-quiet-ultimate/

This is a good site if you are not sure of a parts, they have it imaged like a micro fish. (old school)
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/productSe...key_category=0

You need to get a set of these Cleco fasteners, the pliers and 1/8 set. Order two extra set of the 1/8 and 3/16. A must have.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...60577/10002/-1

Bed liner kit:
http://www.offshoreautobodysupplies....black-w-o-gun/

For extra rivnuts: They don't supply enough. 1/4" bolt and 1/8.
The bolt house or Fastenal.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/fasteners/riveting-self-clinching-products/_/Navigation?intcmp=hpcat-riveting_and_self_clinching&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600191 Riveting 9and Self-Clinching Products"|~

The speedo you get is in miles per hour I will have to buy a new one. Speed hut is the brand. The kool thing is you can custom the speedo. Put your car number and FF racing
http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/4-inc...%7C37:4%7C38:2
http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM4-S...ic-programable

Lights and components: all lights come with kit but the connectors and boots. These just finish off the signal lights.
http://www.rallylights.com/all/elect...0mm-lamps.html
http://www.rallylights.com/

20Jan/150

Daily Update

I have been out in the garage for most of the evening, my fingers are numb, i'm sick with a cold and have a pounding headache. Regardless it didn't keep me out of the garage. Fun enough i have so many cuts on my hands from cleaning parts that my iphone wont unlock with my finger print anymore. Aluminum is SHARP!

I am down to the last knuckle and A arm, i am letting them sit in degreaser overnight, they are rough, like someone pored oil on them and drove down a dirt road. 2 hours cleaning them and they now to the point the others started. Once that was done i decided to move over to some engine cleaning, figured a top down approach should work best. I have swapped engines in the past but never cared enough to make them spotless so this is new territory for me. I started by removing the coil packs, and then the metal mounts that the coils mount to, followed by the wiring harness as a whole. I was then able to remove the fuel rail and the air intake. Throttle body came off after that followed by the valve covers. I used gunk degreaser to carefully remove the gunk being careful to keep it out of the engine. I used non scratching SOS pads and a soft bristle brush to get into those hard to reach areas.

Tomorrow i may pull off the accessories and start cleaning the mounts, bolts and accessories themselves.
Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0304.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	498.6 KB 
ID:	37886Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0306.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	729.6 KB 
ID:	37887Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0307.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	797.9 KB 
ID:	37888Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0308.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	766.0 KB 
ID:	37889Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0309.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	753.8 KB 
ID:	37890Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0310.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	770.8 KB 
ID:	37891Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0305.JPG 
Views:	0 
Size:	582.9 KB 
ID:	37892

20Jan/150

Going to use these 5 point belts

They are street legal in Canada

http://www.jegs.com/p/Schroth-Racing/Schroth-PROFI-II-ASM-FE-4-Point/2877103/10002/-1

20Jan/150

New GTM Costs

Unexpected costs list.

Engine Degreaser $60 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Wire Brushes $20 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Cleco Tool and Pins $70 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Spark Plugs $47.60 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
valve cover gaskets $12.99 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
oil + filter $60 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Tie Rod Ends $76.36 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Brake Caliper repair kits $120 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Brake Paint $45 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
Pickle Fork $14 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
34mm socket $22 CAD $ CAD W/TAX
19Jan/150

Daily Update

Ran to Part Source at lunch and picked up some parts..

4x Brake rotors
1x Front Brake Pads
1x Rear Brake Pads
1x Set of new plug wires.

$750 over the original budget already 🙂 Let the games begin.

I called the dealership, the rubber grommet only comes with the whole e-brake cable for $170 (cheaper then the $250 for the brake assembly). He did give me a lead on a few other places to call.

Rubber parts that i need replaced are:
1x front brake piston boot (Complete rebuild kit purchased from dealership for $31.16, I bought 4 sets, 2 front, 2 rear)
1x Lower A arm ball joint boot (Will have to find from "Energy Suspension")
1x Tie Rod End boot (rear) (Will have to find from "Energy Suspension")
1x knuckle ball joint boot (Will have to find from "Energy Suspension")
2x Emergency Brake Cable Lever Rubber Cover (cant find anywhere for less then $170/side)

 

Day 2 of suspension cleaning. I would post more pictures but they would just be of me, sitting alone, scrubbing for hours on end. Kids lost interest in cleaning pretty early on.

I think i have found a local source for the "Emergency Brake Cable Lever Rubber Cover". Someone is calling me back tomorrow.

I have 2 complete corners clean, and another one started. With any luck i should be able to finish cleaning the suspension and move on to cleaning the brakes and rebuilding them by Wed. Brake paint on Thursday.

Then I can work on cleaning the engine until the parts i ordered come in for the suspension.

kit comes in 5 weeks or so and i need to have a few things done before it gets here:
1) brakes cleaned, rebuilt and painted (two tone black and red)
2) suspension rebuilt with new boots/grease (hit it with a few coats of clear coat before assembly)
3) Rust removed from wheel bearing assemblies (picked up chemicals for this). Then paint them black.
4) Rust removed from all the bolts, paint the bolts black. (might not stay but worth a shot)

Engine
5) Clean the engine
6) build the wiring harness (extend what needs to be, remove what i don't need)
7) Paint the engine valve covers and intake (like the picture i posted before)

8) remove the rust from the parking brake assembly.